*
Kering says 2024 operating income could drop to 2.5 bln
euros
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Group's Q3 sales fell 16% on an organic basis, missing
estimates
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Gucci sales fell 25% in Q3, worse than expected
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Company struggling to revive Gucci sales
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Kering shares have fallen 42% this year
(Adds context and analyst comments in paragraphs 5,7-8; CFO
comments and background from paragraph 17)
By Mimosa Spencer
PARIS, Oct 23 (Reuters) - Kering warned on
Wednesday its 2024 operating income would almost halve to its
lowest in years as weak demand in China deepened the struggles
of the French luxury goods group's main label Gucci.
The group which also owns fashion brands Saint Laurent,
Balenciaga and Bottega Veneta posted a larger-than-expected 16%
drop in third-quarter revenue to 3.79 billion euros ($4.08
billion).
Analysts had expected an 11% decline, according to a
consensus estimate in a Barclays note.
Kering said its 2024 recurring operating income could be
about 2.5 billion euros compared with 4.75 billion euros a year
earlier, following the slowdown in the quarter and "major
uncertainties" likely to weigh on demand in coming months.
In the first half it had guided for a 30% decrease in its
second-half recurring income, which would have seen an annual
income of 2.97 billion euros, according to Reuters calculations.
Kering's warning comes as the luxury sector suffers a
slowdown. Luxury bellwether LVMH missed expectations
last week and flagged a drop in Chinese consumer confidence to
COVID-era lows, with a deterioration in demand for high-end
fashion over the quarter.
"Overall, we were expecting a challenging 3Q print, and some
level of reduction in FY24E EBIT guidance, however the magnitude
of earnings erosion in the short term is worse than expected,"
analysts at RBC said in a note.
"It raises questions on earnings recoverability next year
where we are likely to see further downgrades," they added.
Kering said demand weakened from the second quarter,
particularly in Asia-Pacific, where sales fell 30%, and in
Japan, which suffered a "significant slowdown".
Investors have been nervous about the industry since a
post-pandemic spending spree lost momentum last year, with
Chinese appetite for high-end fashion the key source of concern,
sending luxury companies' shares on a roller-coaster.
The country's property crisis has curbed shoppers'
enthusiasm, while recently-announced government stimulus
measures have failed so far to rekindle demand for high end
fashion.
GUCCI STRUGGLES
Sales at Gucci, which accounts for half of annual group
sales and two-thirds of profit, continued to slide and were down
25% in the quarter, compared to analysts' consensus expectations
for a 21% decline.
"We are executing a far-reaching transformation of the
group, and at Gucci in particular, at a time when the whole
luxury sector faces unfavourable market conditions," Kering
Chair and CEO Francois Henri Pinault said in a statement.
Kering has been managing a broad overhaul of the century-old
Italian fashion house, rebuilding top executive teams and
introducing a new streamlined design style under the artistic
direction of Sabato de Sarno, while pushing the products
upmarket.
The overhaul of Gucci's leather goods category, with the
introduction of a host of new products late in the quarter, was
well underway, added the statement.
Sales of new Gucci products accounted for a third of sales
over the quarter, but it was not enough to compensate for the
performance of older products, including for the leather goods
category, Kering CFO Armelle Poulou told journalists on a call.
Kering shares are down 42% since the start of the year,
compared with a 16% decline at larger rival LVMH. Burberry,
another luxury label undergoing a design overhaul, is down
nearly 50%.
Earlier this month, Kering named Stefano Cantino as Gucci
CEO effective from January, replacing longtime Kering executive
Jean-Francois Palus who held the role for an interim period
since last year.
($1 = 0.9282 euros)