* Puig warns Middle East war is hurting demand, expects
impact to continue next quarter
* Estée Lauder faces high debt, restructuring, and
investor doubts over merger benefits
* Combined Estée-Puig would still trail L'Oréal in sales,
but could boost margins and competitiveness
By Arriana McLymore
NEW YORK, April 29 (Reuters) - Estée Lauder
investors hoping for stellar results from the company's buyout
target Puig were disappointed on Tuesday, when the
Spanish luxury beauty company flagged its slowest quarterly
growth since the throes of the COVID-19 pandemic.
While Puig maintained its full-year outlook, it warned that the
war in the Middle East was hurting demand, and would likely do
so next quarter. That caution matters for Estée, which is hoping
Puig's resilient margins and strong cash flow can help fuel its
own turnaround after a prolonged sales slump.
Estée is drawn to Puig's buzzy brands including Carolina Herrera
and Charlotte Tilbury - popular with TikTok influencers and
well-to-do millennials - and sees them as a way to compete
better with French heavyweight L'Oréal. Estée is
considering a takeover bid for all of Puig's Class B shares at
18 to 19 euros ($21-$22.20) a share, Reuters reported Wednesday.
New CEO Jose Manuel Albesa said on Tuesday merger talks were
"ongoing."
But Puig generates a tenth of its sales from travel retail,
leaving it exposed to swings in airport shopping and
international travel. And Estée shareholders remain unconvinced
the tie-up would significantly narrow the gap with L'Oréal,
particularly as Estée continues restructuring and sales momentum
remains fragile.
Estée has cut 7,000 jobs and streamlined brands, but its
stock is down 1% since news of the merger talks emerged on March
23.
Balance-sheet pressure adds to investor unease. Estée's net
debt stands at nearly five times annual EBITDA, limiting
flexibility should this large acquisition fall short of
expectations. By contrast, L'Oréal's net debt is just 20% of
EBITDA.
Estée reports January-March results on Friday. Analysts
polled by LSEG expect a 3.9% rise in sales from a year earlier,
when revenue plunged 10%, though growth would slow from the
previous quarter.
A DEAL WILL TEST EXECUTION, DEBT DISCIPLINE
L'Oréal has spent years widening its lead in premium beauty,
bolstering a broad portfolio across skincare, makeup and
high-margin fragrance, including acquisitions such as Kering's
perfume assets. Its Luxe division, home to Lancôme,
generated $18.3 billion in sales last year and more than a
quarter of group profit.
Like Puig, L'Oréal has flagged war-related pressure,
particularly in the UAE, and expects a bigger impact in the
second quarter. Still, it delivered its fastest quarterly sales
growth in two years and struck an upbeat tone on demand.
Estée has struggled to keep pace, weighed down by weak sales
in China, reliance on travel retail and uneven demand for
makeup. Even combined, Estée and Puig would post about $20.6
billion in sales, far short of L'Oréal's total annual revenue of
$51.6 billion.
Still, a $40 billion merger would give Estée a fighting
chance, lifting Estée's margins to an estimated 15.6%, from
about 13.8% currently.
"They need to preserve what makes each company great," said
TD Cowen analyst Oliver Chen, pointing to Estée's brand
portfolio and Puig's strength in luxury fashion and fragrance.