MILAN, Sept 4 (Reuters) - Italian designer Giorgio
Armani established one of the world's most famous fashion
businesses over the past five decades, and his death announced
on Thursday inevitably raises questions about the future of a
company whose independence he cherished.
Giorgio Armani was the sole major shareholder of the company
he set up with his late partner Sergio Galeotti in the 1970s and
he has no children to inherit a business which generated revenue
of 2.3 billion euros ($2.7 billion) in 2024.
However, the meticulous Armani put in place measures to try
to ensure continuity in a business that he ran with trusted
family members and a network of long-time colleagues.
He had a younger sister, Rosanna, two nieces, Silvana and
Roberta, as well as a nephew, Andrea Camerana. The nieces and
nephew have senior positions in the group. His right-hand man
Pantaleo Dell'Orco is also regarded as a member of the family,
and all five of them are likely heirs.
More clarity on his plans is likely to emerge in the coming
days, when Armani's will is opened.
However, some of the outlines for the future of the company
without its founder have already been made public.
SECURING HIS LEGACY BY SETTING UP A FOUNDATION
Giorgio Armani started to think of a plan to guarantee a
smooth succession and to retain the company's independence more
than a decade ago, which led him to set up a foundation in 2016.
His aim was to "safeguard the governance (of) assets of the
Armani Group and ensure that these assets are kept stable over
time in respect of and consistent with some principles that are
particularly important to me."
The designer told Italian newspaper Corriere della Sera in
2017 that such a mechanism was needed to help his heirs to get
along and to avoid the group being bought by others or broken
up.
The foundation currently holds a symbolic 0.1% stake in the
Milan-based group but after his death it was expected to get a
bigger share, alongside the other heirs, Giorgio Armani said in
the same interview.
He also said that three nominees he had designated would run
the foundation following his death.
NEW BYLAWS CREATE BLUEPRINT FOR FUTURE
After creating the foundation, Armani also drafted new
company bylaws due to take effect upon his death. The document
sets out the future governing principles for those who inherit
the group.
The bylaws divide the company's share capital into several
categories with different voting rights and powers. It is not
clear from the document how the different blocs of shares will
be distributed.
The bylaws call for a "cautious approach to acquisitions".
They also give some indication about a potential stock
market listing, which would require the favourable vote of the
majority of directors "after the fifth year following the entry
into force of this statute".
Over the years, the group has received several approaches
from potential investors, including private equity firms, but
Armani always ruled out any potential deal.
FINANCIAL PERFORMANCE SUFFERS SLOWDOWN
Like other companies in the luxury goods industry, Armani's
latest financial accounts showed the impact of a slowdown in
spending.
Net revenues fell 5% to 2.3 billion euros in 2024, while
core profit (EBITDA) tumbled by 24% to 398 million euros.
In comments alongside the numbers, Giorgio Armani underlined
his determination to continue to develop a business which is
relatively small in scale compared with the French giant LVMH
and other rivals such as Gucci-owner Kering
and Prada.
"I chose in any case to invest in projects of great symbolic
and practical significance, which are fundamental to the future
of the company," he said in the results statement in July.
These investments included the renovation of flagship stores
including the Madison Avenue building in New York, Emporio
Armani in Milan, as well as spending on the new Palazzo Armani
in Paris and taking e-commerce management in house.
The group is mainly focused on Europe, which generates
almost half of its revenues, a far higher proportion than for
other luxury brands. Americas and Asia Pacific account for
around one fifth each.
The group had 570 million euros in net cash at the end of
2024 after stepping up investments.
ARMANI LIEUTENANTS COULD STEP UP
The Armani group was bound up with its founder, who
maintained a tight control over both the creative and managerial
aspects until the very end.
On the creative side, his niece Silvana worked alongside
Giorgio Armani in designing the women's collections, while
Dell'Orco collaborated with him on the men's collections.
This could ensure a certain continuity in design.
At a managerial level, the group would need to fill the
chairman and CEO roles that were held by Giorgio Armani himself.
Among obvious internal candidates to fill the gap are
long-time executives Giuseppe Marsocci, Deputy General Manager
and Chief Commercial Officer, and Daniele Ballestrazzi, Deputy
General Manager and Group Chief Operating and Financial
Officer.
($1 = 0.8559 euros)
(Reporting by Elisa Anzolin; Editing by Keith Weir and Ros
Russell)