*
Xiaohongshu attracts niche, high-end brands amid tough
retail
environment
*
Influencers use conversational tone, setting Xiaohongshu
apart
from competitors
*
Xiaohongshu's GMV expected to grow, but remains small
compared
to three dominant platforms
By Casey Hall
SHANGHAI, Dec 16 (Reuters) - Since Tera Feng started
documenting her enviable Shanghai lifestyle, including visits to
art galleries and fashion events on Chinese social media eight
years ago, she has built up a following of more than 500,000
people.
While that is a drop in the vast ocean of China's consumer
market, Feng and brands she works with have found her audience -
mainly financially independent urban Chinese women - is willing
to spend.
A recent switch to livestream selling on social media
platform Xiaohongshu three months ago has seen Feng sell
everything from a 15,000 yuan ($2,060) Carven suit to her
favorite brand of rice that costs 60 yuan for a 1 kg bag.
Xiaohongshu, sometimes compared to Instagram, has long been
one of China's most important marketing tools. It has made
several e-commerce pushes over the past decade without much
success.
But now, consultants say brands, especially those
peddling niche and high-end products, are finally seeing sales
breaking through this year amid a difficult retail environment.
While retailers have been forced by penny-pinching consumers
into heavy discounting on other e-commerce platforms such as
Alibaba's ( BABA ) Taobao and PDD Holdings' Pinduoduo, Xiaohongshu's
focus on aspirational lifestyles is attracting less
price-sensitive users.
"Brands really value a following on Xiaohongshu, because the
consumption power is totally different" to other platforms, said
Suya Wang, general manager at Early Data, a Shanghai-based
consultancy.
While some brands including L'Oreal and
Tapestry's Coach have opened their own stores on the
platform, many brands are also investing in partnerships with
influencers who livestream selections of products from multiple
brands and categories.
"There is a better chance of us being discovered by the
right consumers because this is where people go to research
female-oriented lifestyle products," said Melody Zhao, an
investor in period care brand Enya. Xiaohongshu e-commerce will
be a priority for the brand's market entry early next year, she
added.
Xiaohongshu was late to the livestream sales boom in China
led by Alibaba's ( BABA ) Tmall and ByteDance's Douyin, but in
2022 it combined its e-commerce and livestreaming divisions,
incorporating purchasing functions into livestreams.
Influencers livestreaming on Xiaohongshu tend to employ a
quieter, conversational tone when speaking to viewers, setting
themselves apart from fast-talking, high-energy hosts on other
platforms that use aggressive sales tactics.
Ian Hylton, president of Ms Min, an independent Chinese
designer brand which sells knitted sweaters priced at over 5,000
yuan, said they were caught off guard by a sudden growth in
Xiaohongshu sales after being featured in a livestream hosted by
Chinese actress Dong Jie.
"We never approached Xiaohongshu as a selling platform, it
was a place to tell our stories and to raise brand awareness,"
he said. "But when Dong Jie talks about Ms Min, we can sell
hundreds of units of an item following a single livestream,"
Hylton said.
Ivan Gu of Magic Advertising, an agency that manages the
social media and e-commerce operations of luxury brands, said a
lot of his clients, including Max Mara and LVMH, were
looking more seriously to Xiaohongshu as a sales driver.
Plans, still in the works, include opening stores and
running more livestreams, or setting up brand sales associates
as livestream hosts on the platform, a phenomenon known as KOS -
or key opinion sales - in China.
'TRIPLE DIGIT GAINS'
Xiaohongshu, whose name translates to "little red book", is
similar to Meta's Instagram in that it allows users to
curate photos, videos and text documenting their lives. In
recent years it has also become a de facto search engine for
young women looking for travel tips, anti-aging creams and
restaurant recommendations.
The company, a privately held firm with over 300 million
users and a reported valuation of $17 billion after its latest
funding round in July, declined interview requests from Reuters
and did not respond to questions regarding its sales revenue.
Hongshan (previously Sequoia China), Hillhouse, Boyu, and Citic
Capital are all among Xiaohongshu's investors.
Xiaohongshu has stayed largely quiet about its e-commerce
strategy but Jacob Cooke, CEO of e-commerce consultancy WPIC
Marketing + Technologies who works with brands looking to join
the platform, said it has been hiring staff away from
competitors Alibaba ( BABA ) and ByteDance's Douyin in a sign of its
ambition.
"We're anticipating triple digit gains in Xiaohongshu's GMV
(gross merchandise volume, a measure of sales) next year," Cooke
said, estimating the platform will top $100 billion in sales
revenue in 2025.
Others however, say that Xiaohongshu will likely remain
niche as a e-commerce player and not a real threat to larger
platforms.
Tmall, JD.com ( JD ) and Pinduoduo, China's top three
platforms, account for more than 90% of the country's $2.78
trillion in GMV, according to data consultancy Syntun.
"Compared with large platforms, their GMV is too small and
so they don't have substantial platform influence,"
Beijing-based tech and e-commerce analyst Li Chengdong said.
($1 = 7.2768 Chinese yuan renminbi)
(Reporting by Casey Hall in Shanghai; additional reporting by
Sophie Yu in Beijing; Editing by Lincoln Feast.)