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This content was produced in Russia where the law
restricts
coverage of Russian military operations in Ukraine
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Western brands face tougher competition in Russian markets
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Moscow legalised grey imports of Western merchandise
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Russian, Chinese brands have filled gaps left by Western
firms
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Some consumers say they want more choice
By Roman Churikov, Olga Popova and Yevgeniy Matveev
MOSCOW, Feb 26 (Reuters) - Washington's push to swiftly
end the conflict in Ukraine has sparked speculation that Western
brands may want to return to Russia, but from fashion to cars,
the markets they vacated now look more competitive than three
years ago.
As Ukraine marked the anniversary of Russian troops flooding
across its border, U.S. President Donald Trump suggested that
the conflict could end within weeks, though it is not yet clear
how.
Western sanctions that complicate cross-border payments and
trade flows would probably need softening for companies to
return in large numbers. Those that do take the plunge will find
markets now dominated by domestic - or in the case of cars,
Chinese - brands.
Henderson, a men's clothing chain that listed on
Moscow Exchange in late 2023, said the departure of foreign
retailers had given it a development boost, mainly by making
better locations within shopping centres available.
That has helped the company grow its sales three times
faster than the overall 8% annual growth of the menswear market,
even though Western brands are still available in some places.
"The market itself has not changed significantly, as the
majority of foreign brands (60-80% of global manufacturers,
according to our estimates) did not leave," Henderson's press
office said in response to Reuters questions.
"(They) just transformed sales channels, using the services
of local, multi-brand stores to sell products, or by changing
the signage on their stores and introducing new trademarks."
Consumer goods are not under sanctions, but as many
companies refused to do business with Russia, Moscow legalised
grey imports through third countries that allow retailers to
sell foreign goods without the trademark owner's permission.
BATTLING FOR SPACE
The difference is that shopping malls' prime locations, in
the past reserved for Western flagship stores, are now taken by
Russian rivals.
"The best spots, where Western brands used to be stationed,
are already filled," said Pavel Lyulin, vice president of the
Shopping Centres Association of Russia, Belarus and Kazakhstan.
"These are long-term contracts, so every such venue will be
battled for."
Moscow is unlikely to greet returning brands with open arms.
President Vladimir Putin on Friday said Russian manufacturers
must be treated preferentially if foreign firms return.
Kirill Dmitriev, Putin's special envoy on international
economic and investment cooperation, last week said he expected
a number of U.S. companies to return as early as the second
quarter of this year, without giving further details.
More than a thousand Western companies have exited Russia
since Moscow sent troops into Ukraine. Some left because of
costs and disruptions brought by sanctions and payment issues
while others, particularly retailers, in protest against
Russia's actions.
The retail sector has yet to fully recover, with shopping
centres still welcoming 20% fewer visitors than in 2019,
according to Lyulin.
But Russian shoppers have taken to local brands.
"In the very beginning, it was really hard because the
Russian retail market for clothing and footwear was
underdeveloped," Moscow resident Anna, 29, told Reuters on one
of the Russian capital's main shopping streets.
"But now, absolutely not. Our local brands produce things
that are absolutely no worse (than Western ones)."
Stockmann, a retailer which sells foreign and domestic
clothes and acquired Hugo Boss' Russian business last year, has
noted an increase in domestic brands' sales, Darya, a
salesperson in one of the company's Moscow stores, said.
MORE CHOICE
Moscow resident Anastasia Efremova told Reuters that Russian
brands had raised prices, but otherwise the impact had been
minimal.
"I am talking not only about clothing or cosmetics but also
about spare car parts, for instance," Efremova, 38, said. "There
were fears we would not be able to buy something for cars, but
everything is in stock."
Foreign carmakers helped grow Russia's car market when they
began building factories in Russia in the early 2000s.
The sudden departure of automakers like Renault,
Volkswagen and Nissan ( NSANF ) left a gap that was
filled primarily by Chinese competitors, which now account for
more than 50% of new car sales compared with less than 10%
before the start of the conflict.
Domestic carmakers account for about 30% of sales, up from
closer to 20% before February 2022.
For now, Western companies are ruling out imminent returns.
Executives from Arla Foods, maker of Lurpak Butter, and
InterContinental Hotels ( IHG ) last week said there were no
plans to re-enter the Russian market for now. France's Renault
said returning under the terms agreed when exiting in 2022 was
"very unlikely".
Russian brands will want to defend the market share they
gained and feel confident they are strong enough to compete
should international players come back, said Valeria, a
salesperson in a central Moscow fashion store.
Ultimately, consumers want to be free to decide for
themselves, said Moscow resident Laysen Faskhutdinova.
"I'd rather they return. Russians should have a choice."