*
Merger saddled Saks with billions of dollars of debt,
leading to
financial struggles
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Saks delayed vendor payments, affecting product
availability and
sales margins
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Saks' real estate valued at $4 billion, future of Fifth
Avenue
flagship uncertain
By Juveria Tabassum and Arriana McLymore
NEW YORK, Jan 8 (Reuters) - The $2.7-billion marriage of
Saks and Neiman Marcus was meant to create a powerhouse in the
world of luxury department stores, helping it fight competition
from online players and rivals such as Bloomingdale's and
Nordstrom.
A year on, it has instead left the enlarged
company contemplating court protection under mounting debt and
sluggish store traffic.
Canada-based conglomerate Hudson's Bay Co, which had owned Saks
since 2013, bought rival Neiman Marcus along with storied New
York retailer Bergdorf Goodman in July 2024 and spun off its
U.S. luxury assets to create Saks Global, crowning previous
merger attempts and bringing together three names that have
defined American high fashion for over a century.
Big names such as
Amazon ( AMZN ) and Salesforce ( CRM ) blessed the deal by
becoming equity investors.
Yet the merger, led by HBC chairman and NRDC Private Equity
founder Richard Baker, was built on shaky ground. Saks took on
about $2.2 billion of debt to fund its acquisition of Neiman
Marcus, raising some concerns considering the company was
loss-making amid a global luxury sector slowdown.
Meanwhile, top brands started to sell more aggressively in
directly-controlled shops, giving consumers less reason to go to
Saks and Neiman, exacerbating the already frail debt structure,
according to a consumer and retail banker.
"The deal was built on aggressive earnings and cost-cut
assumptions that have not been achieved, while the added
leverage has proven difficult to sustain in a structurally
shrinking retail sector," said Tim Hynes, Global Head of Credit
Research at financial intelligence firm Debtwire.
DOOMED FROM THE GET-GO
Saks targeted $600 million of annual cost savings over the
next five years thanks to the combined company's scale,
according to media reports citing the company's investor call in
October.
However, the luxury sector did not recover in 2025, and
servicing debt became harder, forcing the conglomerate to tap
investors for a further $600 million in June.
"I don't believe they had enough capital initially put into the
company after the acquisition to ride out the period of time it
takes to actualize savings. So started to run out of cash," said
Gary Wassner, CEO of New York-based factoring firm Hilldun,
which buys unpaid invoices from retailers and is owed several
million by Saks Global.
By October, Saks Global had cut its full-year adjusted core
earnings target to $140 million to $160 million, down from an
earlier $275 million to $325 million range, according to a
Bloomberg report, citing its investor call at the time.
Saks did not respond to multiple Reuters requests for comments
for this story. Amazon ( AMZN ) declined to comment on Saks' financial
troubles, while Salesforce ( CRM ) did not immediately respond.
The company was in talks for a $1 billion loan to help keep
things running, Bloomberg reported last week.
EMPTY SHELVES, PAYMENTS DUE
Without enough cash, Saks delayed payments to vendors, and
ended up receiving products nearly a month later than rivals,
affecting its ability to sell them at full price, Wassner and
former vendors told Reuters.
Over the past year, vendors began pulling back orders to
Saks, and as of January, over 100 brands had stopped shipping
product to the company, and Hilldun paused approving orders in
early December, Wassner said.
A source at a ready-to-wear women's fashion brand, who
declined to be named because of confidentiality issues, said the
brand stopped sending merchandise to Saks in December, and
hasn't received a six-figure payment from the company since
August. A watch company which sold at Saks on Fifth Avenue told
Reuters it had ended the relationship because Saks was late on
paying it at least $70,000.
In the end, the cash ran out, despite trying to sell a
minority stake in Bergdorf Goodman in September, and Saks missed
a $100 million interest payment in December, raising the
prospect of a Chapter 11 filing.
The company has 30 days to make those payments, during which
it can try to work with creditors to formulate a plan to
restructure its finances, said Debtwire's Hynes.
Wassner said Hilldun would submit claims to the trustee of
the bankruptcy court to be on Creditors Committee if the company
does file for bankruptcy protection.
Real estate mogul Baker replaced veteran Marc Metrick as
Saks Global's new CEO late in December. He also owned Canada's
300-year-old department store chain Hudson's Bay and
Manhattan-based Lord & Taylor. Both folded, joining a long list
of luxury retail chains which have crumbled in the last decade.
Baker also owns Germany's Galeria Karstadt Kaufhof.
Despite the sector's struggle, investors continue to value
prime real estate. Saks Global's property portfolio, which
includes nearly 13 million square feet of gross leasable area in
the U.S., is worth nearly $4 billion, according to S&P Global
estimates.
"The big question will be the future of the iconic Fifth
Avenue flagship. While it may survive an initial restructuring,
the highest value for that land is certainly not as a retail
store," Debtwire's Hynes said.