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Gen Z's luxury spending to rise from 4% to 25% by
2030-Boston
Consulting Group
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Legacy brands struggle to adapt to Gen Z's unique
preferences
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Gen Z influenced by social media and mix-and-match fashion
trends
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Coach and Ralph Lauren ( RL ) capitalize on generational shift
By Samantha Marshak
NEW YORK, Sept 19 (Reuters) - Fleur Arbel and Christophe
Kairouz, both from France, were lured into Louis Vuitton's New
York flagship recently by a colorful sculpture of a monogrammed
giraffe and ostrich above the store's entrance.
But the two 24-year-olds are more likely to spend their
shopping dollars elsewhere, as Louis Vuitton's heavy logos and
styles strike them as passé.
"I think they failed to keep the luxury image in a way,"
said Kairouz. "I think they need to create something new,
original."
Arbel and Kairouz are a tiny fraction of the Gen Z cohort
born between 1998 and 2012: the luxury industry's new frontier.
The group made up 4% of global luxury spending before the
pandemic; by 2030, they will account for 25%, according to
Boston Consulting Group.
Executives, consultants, and analysts say this generation is
harder to pin down than their predecessors. They are influenced
by a global social media landscape and tend to mix-and-match
goods from established names with trendier labels, shopping
everywhere from TikTok to thrift stores. Legacy brands trying to
attract Gen Z consumers have used influencers, pop-up shops, and
affordable items like bag charms.
"There's a lot of similarity between Gen Z in Shanghai and Los
Angeles and London," said Scott Roe, chief financial officer and
chief operating officer of Coach-parent Tapestry.
More affordable luxury companies like Coach and Ralph Lauren ( RL )
- whose revenue rose 6.8% in the 12-month period ended
in March - are capitalizing on the generational shift. Coach has
gained cache with Gen Z due to using influencers,
personalization services, and focusing on sustainability,
experts said. Coach's total revenue rose 9.9% to about $5.6
billion for the 12-month period ended in June.
Tapestry's Roe said Gen Z is not less brand-loyal than other
generations, but it is harder for brands to reach these
consumers because shoppers have more choices. "To break through,
you need to have a strong share of voice."
That voice is pricey: Tapestry increased its marketing spend
from 3% of sales pre-pandemic to 10% this year, according to
its May earnings call, but did not disclose how much it targeted
Gen Z specifically.
Brands are contending with upstarts and smaller established
labels like Collina Strada and Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen's The
Row, which climbed two spots to sixth place in the most recent
Lyst Index of hottest luxury brands. Lyst, a global fashion
shopping platform, tracks shopper behavior and social media
engagement for more than 160 million users on its site and is
the "biggest dataset in fashion," according to the company.
Hillary Taymour, creative director of Collina Strada, said
they started targeting Gen Z in 2020 with digital ads. Now, Gen
Z and Millennials account for 58% of its business. "It mixes
sustainability with a playful, meme-driven aesthetic," she said,
citing the brand's "inclusive casting and diverse runway shows"
that make younger audiences feel like part of a community.
AFFORDABLE ITEMS DRAW IN YOUNGER SHOPPERS
Not all fashion powerhouses are being left on the shelf.
Luxury labels from Kering-owned Bottega Veneta, Prada Group's
Miu Miu, and LVMH-owned Loewe continue to do well with Gen Z, as
Miu Miu currently ranks first on the Lyst Index, followed by
Loewe.
Miu Miu sales rose 49% in the first half of 2025 compared to the
same period in 2024, capturing first-time luxury buyers with
leather bag charms, which retail in the range of $240 to $1,250.
"Brands like Miu Miu succeeded because single pieces mirror the
brand identity, allowing Gen Z consumers to buy into the brand
without having to purchase a full look," said Achim Berg,
founder of FashionSIGHTS, an industry think-tank.
Less expensive items draw in younger luxury shoppers, who
are still more budget-conscious than their elders. In August,
spending among Gen Z and Millennials - those born after 1978 -
rose by just 0.5% from the previous year, according to Bank of
America, in comparison to a 2.4% increase for Baby Boomers.
"When I shop luxury, I think about 'what's going to last me
a long time?' I'm spending a lot of money on an item, I want
something I'm not going to get sick of in five or ten years,"
said Kendall Still, a 26-year-old Los Angeles native.
Some brands have struggled. Sales at Kering-owned
Gucci fell 25% in the second quarter, and the company ousted CEO
Stefano Cantino after just nine months on the job on Sept. 17.
Data from Gen Z researcher dcdx, which tracks mentions and
interactions with user-generated brand content, showed Gucci
suffered the sharpest decline on social media among top luxury
labels over the past year.
Over the last two years, Kering shares have lost 43% of
their value while Tapestry has more than tripled. Gucci did not
respond to a request for comment.
"Legacy brands are splitting into clear winners and losers,"
said Frederica Levato, senior partner at Bain & Company.
The next players to emerge globally could be Chinese brands
like Uma Wang and Shushu/Tong. In Asia, newer Chinese companies
are gaining traction with younger shoppers, due to their digital
fluency and ability to capture China's national identity, Chanel
CEO Leena Nair said at The Economic Club of New York on Sept.
16.
"You cannot take the longevity of a brand for granted; you
stay in the public consciousness and you have the iconicity
because you're relevant and timely, and constantly modern," she
said.