March 21 (Reuters) - Nike ( NKE ) has increasingly
leaned on its iconic basketball shoes to boost sales, but as the
sportswear giant bleeds market share to newer brands, some
analysts and investors are wondering if that is a mistake.
The Jordan brand and best-selling styles such as the Nike
Dunk have long driven the company's sneaker sales but consumers
have new favorites in the market - On and Deckers-owned
Hoka that have grabbed more shelf space globally.
"If we do a post-mortem, maybe there's been too much
reliance on legacy or historical product," said Jim Tierney,
chief investment officer of Concentrated US Growth Equities at
AllianceBernstein, which owns Nike ( NKE ) shares.
Nike Air Jordan shoes, first produced for U.S. basketball
star Michael Jordan during his time with the Chicago Bulls, were
released in 1985. The sneakers soon became a global craze thanks
in part to ads featuring Jordan and filmmaker Spike Lee with the
tagline "It's gotta be the shoes."
Data from analytics firm Altan Insights, which studies the
collectible sneaker market, shows that Nike ( NKE ) doubled the number
of Air Jordan 1 Highs released through its SNKRS app between
2019 and 2023 and more than tripled the number of Nike Dunk Lows
released over the same period.
While Nike ( NKE ) does not report what percent of its total
revenues come from Jordan, the brand accounts for roughly 16% of
the retailer's wholesale revenues, according to Nike's ( NKE ) fiscal
2023 annual report - up 29% compared to the previous year.
But the growing popularity of newer brands such as On and
Hoka, as well as established sportswear players like New Balance
suggests the importance of Jordan sales has become a liability
for the company, analysts said. One problem is shifting consumer
tastes, according to Stifel analyst James Duffy.
On's market share at Dick's Sporting in the footwear
category increased to 8.2% in February from the 6.1% it had in
October 2023, while New Balance saw its market share rise to
5.4% from 4.6% for the same period.
This is in contrast to Nike's ( NKE ) Jordan whose market share at
the retailer has hovered over only 5% from October to February,
according to YipitData, which collates market share using email
receipt and transaction data.
In a Sunday note, Duffy wrote that "retro footwear trends
are shifting from court styles (in which Nike ( NKE ) is overweight)
towards chunky dad shoes and terrace styles." That has allowed
competitors such as New Balance and Adidas, with its
best-selling Samba sneakers, to draw shoppers who might have
otherwise turned to Nike ( NKE ) as a fashion choice.
Nike's ( NKE ) newer basketball shoe releases have not had the same
popularity with shoppers as its retro styles, according to Jane
Hali & Associates senior analyst Jessica Ramirez. Its newest
entry, the Book 1, named for NBA star Devin Booker, "did not get
a very good review and is a very casual-looking shoe" instead of
a performance-driven basketball shoe, Ramirez said, referring to
the category for activity or sports shoes.
To be sure, certain styles of Nike ( NKE ) basketball shoes,
including the Air Jordan 11 Retro, are currently on trend,
though not as performance shoes. "The reason we're seeing all
these promotions in Nike's ( NKE ) non-retro basketball styles is
because they're not a fashion uniform the way wearing a pair of
11s is," said Williams Trading analyst Sam Poser.
The Air Jordan 1 Mid SE, usually priced at $135, was
discounted $87.97 on Nike's ( NKE ) U.S. website as of Thursday, while
its low-top Dunks sell for $115 and high-top versions sell for
up to $165. Low-top Air Jordan 11s, a non-retro style, are
currently reduced from $130 to $97.97.
Nike ( NKE ) shares have lost 16% of their value over the last 12
months while Deckers shares have more than doubled.
Nike ( NKE ) executives have highlighted upcoming products in the
running category to compete with On and Hoka, whose sneakers
have become popular with shoppers who wear them to the office as
well as on runs.
Tierney said investors are also hopeful that upcoming
fashion shoe launches, such as the Nike Air Max DN, which will
price at $160, will counteract the slowdown in Nike's ( NKE ) retro
business.
"I think the next six months are critical," he said. "We
know that newness is coming, but if it doesn't take off now, I
think investors will ask the question, 'then when?'"