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Some restaurant chains adopt beef tallow for cooking
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Kennedy's beef tallow claims face scrutiny from health
experts
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Kennedy could influence dietary guidelines and research
funding
(Updates February 13 story to include Kennedy's comments on
beef tallow incentives in paragraph 6)
By Renee Hickman
Feb 13 (Reuters) - Robert F. Kennedy Jr. lowered a raw
Thanksgiving turkey into a bubbling pot of cooking fat in a
video posted to social media last November.
"This is how we cook the MAHA way," said Kennedy, who the
Senate confirmed as head of the U.S. Department of Health and
Human Services on Thursday, referring to his Trump
administration slogan, Make America Healthy Again.
Kennedy was cooking with beef tallow, or rendered beef fat,
which he has repeatedly claimed is healthier than canola or
other oils from seeds.
Beef tallow, used primarily for cooking but also in products
like soap and biodiesel, has been championed by a subset of
online wellness influencers. Its nutritional merits compared to
seed oils, however, have been disputed.
The market for beef tallow was worth an estimated $480
million in 2023, up from $446 million in 2018, according to the
North American Renderers Association. It is a fraction of the
market for vegetable-based cooking oils, but producers expect
the tallow market to grow as a result of Kennedy's enthusiasm.
Following his swearing-in on Thursday, Kennedy told Fox
News that "McDonald's ought to be incentivized" to use beef
tallow in its Big Macs.
Some companies had taken note of rising interest even before
his confirmation.
In January, Indianapolis-based fast food chain Steak 'n
Shake announced it would begin cooking its shoestring fries in
beef tallow. The chain posted a photo on social media of Kennedy
in a car with the window rolled down, with the caption: "Did
this man just pull up in our drive thru?"
Other restaurant chains have also jumped onboard.
Sweetgreen, the Los Angeles-based salad chain, is eliminating
seed oils from its menus and using products like olive and
avocado oil instead, while Blue Collar Restaurant Group, which
owns restaurants in Wyoming and Montana, is replacing seed oils
with butter and beef tallow as well as olive and avocado oil.
Since U.S. President Donald Trump nominated Kennedy to lead
the sprawling health department in November, the former
environmental lawyer's claims about food - from beef tallow to
raw milk - have come under scrutiny.
The Center for Science in the Public Interest, a non-profit
consumer advocacy group, has said that seed oil opponents
overstate the risks of inflammation, heart disease and obesity
from seed oil, and that a diet rich in saturated fats such as
those found in meats, butter and cheese poses a larger health
risk.
Yet a shift away from seed oils in cooking could accelerate
with Kennedy as Health and Human Services Secretary.
Kennedy may hold sway in appointing advisors to a panel that
determines the Dietary Guidelines for Americans, a document
created every five years by the U.S. Department of Agriculture
and the Food and Drug Administration, according to Sarah
Sorscher, director of regulatory affairs at the Center for
Science in the Public Interest.
The guidelines are used in everything from the preparation
of school lunches to the determination of daily values on food
nutrition labels.
Sorscher said Kennedy may influence research funding and
push for regulation or even bans on products such as seed oils.
He could also use the visibility of his new position to
pressure companies to follow his lead on seed oils and beef
tallow without having to enforce any changes in policy, she
added.
"Those companies that are seeking to please him and secure
favor might reformulate to remove products that he's targeted
and remove ingredients that he's targeted," Sorscher said.
Eric Gustafson, chief executive of California-based animal
fat refiner Coast Packing Company, said he watched in the 1990s
as fast food companies like McDonald's led a wholesale shift
away from beef tallow to vegetable oils in response to medical
research linking animal fats to heart disease.
Gustafson said he has started to see the pendulum swing
back, with sales increasing steadily over the past decade.
Kennedy, often referred to by his initials RFK, used tallow
from one of Coast Packing's customers in the Thanksgiving video,
Gustafson said.
"We're trying to figure out how (that customer) can get to
RFK to give him a few more cases of tallow and tell him thank
you," he said.