*
Sale includes Creed and long-term fragrance licences for
Bottega
Veneta, Balenciaga
*
Sale marks Kering CEO Luca de Meo's first major move to
cut debt
and refocus on core fashion business
*
Sale marks L'Oreal's biggest deal to date, surpassing
2023's
$2.5 billion Aesop acquisition
(Adds analyst comment in paragraphs 6-8; detail on closing of
sale)
By Tassilo Hummel and Dominique Patton
PARIS, Oct 19 (Reuters) - Gucci owner Kering
said on Sunday it has agreed to sell its beauty business to
L'Oreal for 4 billion euros ($4.66 billion), in a
major shift in strategy by new CEO Luca de Meo as he moves to
tackle the luxury group's high debt and refocus on its core
fashion business.
Under the deal, French beauty giant L'Oreal will acquire
Kering's fragrance line Creed, as well as rights to develop
fragrance and beauty products under Kering's fashion labels
Gucci, Bottega Veneta and Balenciaga under a 50-year exclusive
license.
The licence for Gucci fragrances is currently held by Coty ( COTY )
and the new 50-year deal with L'Oreal will commence
when that expires, believed by analysts to be in 2028.
The sale is a significant step towards reducing Kering's net
debt, which stood at 9.5 billion euros at the end of June, on
top of 6 billion euros in long-term lease liabilities, sparking
investor concern.
It is also a major shift in direction by De Meo less than
two months after taking the helm, as he unwinds one of the
biggest strategic pivots made by his predecessor Francois-Henri
Pinault, whose family controls the group, in recent years.
Kering set up its beauty business in 2023 after acquiring
perfume maker Creed for 3.5 billion euros in an effort to
diversify and reduce its reliance on its Gucci brand, which
accounts for most of its profits. But the group has struggled to
ramp up the business, posting a 60 million euro operating loss
for the first half of the year.
The company is also battling declining growth at its largest
brand Gucci, which was hit hard by slowing demand in the key
Chinese market. Gucci's revenue plummeted 25% year-on-year in
the last reported quarter, increasing the pressure on Kering to
deleverage to avoid further credit downgrades.
"We believe selling Kering Beauté at around the same price
paid for Creed two years ago is bitter but necessary medicine,"
said analysts at Bernstein.
A move back to beauty licensing would be "less capital
intensive, less operationally geared, and arguably higher
margin", said analysts at RBC, ahead of the deal, even if it has
to share revenues with L'Oreal.
"We also believe it indicates a strategic re-focus towards
its core competencies in soft luxury and any beauty divestment
may free up investment headroom towards these priorities, " they
wrote in a note to investors.
De Meo, who took over as CEO in September, had told
shareholders he planned to take some difficult decisions to
reduce debt at the group, including rationalising and
reorganising where necessary.
The company has also postponed a plan to fully acquire
Italian fashion brand Valentino, and is aiming to sell stakes in
its real estate to raise cash.
L'Oreal, the world's biggest dedicated cosmetics and beauty
player, already produces blockbuster perfumes under the Yves
Saint Laurent label after acquiring rights to the brand from
Kering for 1.15 billion euros in 2008. The two companies also
said they were setting up a joint venture to provide experiences
and services for luxury clients.
The deal for Kering beauty will be L'Oreal's largest to
date, bigger than its purchase of Australian brand Aesop for
$2.5 billion in 2023. It is expected to close in the first half
of 2026.
"L'Oreal enjoys strong momentum in the Luxe division and
they must be looking forward to getting hold of the perfume and
beauty licences associated with Kering's prestigious yet
relatively underdeveloped brands," said Bruno-Roland Bernard, a
consultant and adjunct professor for corporate finance and
luxury management at Paris-based Institut Francais de la Mode.
"It's also possible they are taking advantage of a
favourable bargaining position - with limited competition: who
has the credentials and the firepower to deal with a Kering
under time pressure?"
L'Oreal, which has said there were "plenty" of acquisitions
being looked at this year, has also been approached by
representatives of Armani Group, Reuters reported this month,
after the beauty conglomerate was named in the will of late
designer Giorgio Armani as one of the preferred buyers for a
minority stake in his fashion house.
($1 = 0.8576 euros)
(Reporting by Dominique Patton and Tassilo Hummel in Paris,
Anusha Shah in Bengaluru; Editing by Edmund Klamann, Diane Craft
and Lincoln Feast.)