July 30 (Reuters) - Permira-backed womenswear retailer
Reformation was valued at $886.1 million after its
shares opened flat in their NYSE debut on Thursday.
The Vernon, California-based company's shares opened at $15
apiece, the same as its offer price. The retailer and some of
its shareholders had raised $211 million in its IPO on
Wednesday.
The debut comes as the number of U.S. consumer and retail
IPOs are at their lowest in a decade, even as the broader IPO
market rebounds.
Founded in 2009 as a vintage clothing boutique in Los
Angeles, Reformation markets itself as the largest sustainable
brand that designs and sells women's apparel and accessories.
"During the peak of ESG investing, a sustainability
narrative often attracted significant investor interest," said
Kat Liu, vice president at IPO research firm IPOX.
"Today, investors are placing much greater emphasis on
financial performance. Sustainability can certainly strengthen a
brand and help build customer loyalty, but it can no longer
compensate for weak fundamentals."
Private equity firm Permira, which has long track record of
investing in consumer companies, acquired a majority stake in
Reformation in 2019. Permira's portfolio also includes brands
such as K-Way and Italian manufacturing hub Gruppo Florence.
Reformation has five core product groups: dresses, bottoms,
tops, sweaters and accessories. Its strategy is based on testing
new styles in small quantities, launching tests twice a week on
its website and once a week in its stores, and then iterating on
proven designs, it said in its IPO filing.
It has more than a million active customers across its
direct-to-consumer channels, it added.
"A high percentage of returning customers suggests genuine
brand loyalty rather than one-time demand. Those customers are
generally less expensive to retain, tend to spend more over
time, and can make revenue more predictable," Liu said.