By Mimosa Spencer and Tassilo Hummel
PARIS, Oct 22 (Reuters) - Kering's overall group sales
fell 5% on a like-for-like basis, the French group said on
Wednesday, beating market expectations thanks to the performance
of its smaller brands despite ongoing troubles at flagship label
Gucci.
A 14% drop in Gucci's sales marked a seventh consecutive
quarterly double-digit decline for the brand, which accounts for
more than half of group profit, but Kering's comments on
improvement in key markets China and the United States further
fuelled newfound optimism in the sector.
In the first trading update under newly-appointed CEO Luca de
Meo, hired to accelerate a turnaround after two years of falling
sales, Kering said revenue in the July to September period
reached 3.42 billion euros ($3.98 billion).
Analysts expected group sales to fall 9.6% with Gucci down
about 15%, according to Visible Alpha data. Smaller houses Yves
Saint Laurent and Bottega Veneta performed more strongly than
expected, lifting overall group results.
"Kering's third-quarter performance...remains far below that
of the market," de Meo said in a statement. "We are working
relentlessly on our turnaround, as shown by our recent
decisions," he added.
Kering shares have risen 85% since de Meo's hire was
announced in June, well ahead of a 12% gain for the STOXX Europe
Luxury 10 over the same period, as investors bet on
rapid restructuring and a refocus on core fashion.
CHINA TRENDS IMPROVE
De Meo, a former Renault boss whose package included a 20
million euro sign-on bonus in addition to fixed and variable
annual pay, is racing to streamline the group, cut debt and
steer resources toward Gucci's revival.
This week, the firm announced the $4.7 billion sale of its
beauty arm to L'Oréal with de Meo flagging more deals to come.
Trends in China improved markedly over the last quarter,
Kering's Chief Financial Officer Armelle Poulou told journalists
on a call, echoing similar remarks from LVMH and
Hermes.
"Our performance remained negative in China but showed
substantial sequential improvement," Poulou said, adding that
other regions also improved.
LVMH last week reported better-than-expected quarterly sales,
sparking a rally in luxury stocks on hopes the sector's
prolonged slump in China and among aspirational consumers was
easing.
Under the creative direction of former Balenciaga designer
Demna, appointed this year amid a wider reshuffle in the
industry, Gucci last month rolled out a fast-track "see now, buy
now" approach in a bid to regain momentum.
The collection was praised by fashion observers and led to an
uptick in store traffic, but Kering warned it would take time
before the new styles would help significantly lift sales.