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Smaller brands like Duke's and Mike's Amazing gain market
share
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Consumers shift to smaller brands due to price and value
concerns
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Unilever ( UL ) CEO was pushed out amid worries about slow
turnaround
By Jessica DiNapoli, Svea Herbst-Bayliss, Siddharth Cavale,
Abigail Summerville
NEW YORK, March 3 (Reuters) - Big Food's worst nightmare
is unfolding across U.S. supermarket aisles.
Shoppers, weary of high prices and highly-processed packaged
food, are increasingly buying from smaller food brands,
threatening the growth of billion-dollar products from
conglomerates such as Unilever ( UL ).
Consider Hellmann's mayonnaise, one of Unilever's ( UL ) biggest
brands globally. The condiment is losing market share to
less-well-known rivals such as Duke's Mayo, which was founded in
the U.S. south, and Mike's Amazing mayo, which is gaining
traction in the U.S. northeast, where it says it is the fastest
growing condiments brand. Both are often priced for less than
Hellmann's.
A 30-ounce jar of Duke's, for example, is priced below $5
versus Hellmann's $6.49 for the same size. It is now one of the
country's fastest growing brands of mayo with more than $100
million in sales, according to the buyout firm that acquired its
parent company, Sauer Brands, for about $1.5 billion in
January.
Duke's market share grew to 9% from 6% in 2021, said Joe
Tuza, Sauer Brands chief growth officer. The sugar-free mayo is
the country's fifth-largest by market share, Tuza said, behind
Hellmann's and other Kraft Heinz ( KHC ) and Unilever brands.
The rival products' success shows the challenges facing global
consumer product and food marketers such as London-based
Unilever ( UL ), which in February surprised retailers, investors and
employees when it replaced its second CEO in two years, Hein
Schumacher, in part because he failed to turn around its 60.8
billion euro business quickly enough.
Unilever ( UL ) declined to comment for this story.
The company paid $24.3 billion, including the assumption of
debt, to acquire Hellmann's owner Bestfoods in 2000, expanding
its presence in food. Unilever ( UL ) has aggressively marketed
Hellmann's, and launched new flavors of the condiment, but in
recent years, the brand's hold has weakened in the U.S. mayo
category, according to Euromonitor data tracking
brick-and-mortar and online retailers.
Adam Theo, 45, of Arlington, Virginia, said he switched to
Duke's after a friend introduced him to the condiment about
three years ago. "Before that, I never thought much about my
choice of mayonnaise," he said.
Unilever's ( UL ) food business, dominated by Hellmann's and Knorr
seasonings, saw sales volume remain roughly flat last year,
while prices rose, Fernando Fernandez, who was Unilever's ( UL ) chief
financial officer, said last month. Fernandez replaced
Schumacher as CEO on March 1.
Fernandez said Hellmann's and Knorr performed better than
Unilever's ( UL ) other food brands.
'SHOWN THE DOOR'
Volume sales of packaged food in the United States, Unilever's ( UL )
biggest market, have been pressured due to price hikes.
The makers of household staples, ranging from condiments like
Hellmann's to Procter & Gamble's ( PG ) Luvs diapers, have seen
some shoppers drift away from their products due to steep prices
and fewer innovative products that shoppers would pay more for.
About two weeks before announcing Schumacher's departure,
Unilever ( UL ) reported lackluster full-year earnings and said it has
had a slower start to 2025, sending its shares crashing.
The board declined to detail how Schumacher lost directors'
support but a source familiar with its thinking said the
decision to dismiss the 53-year-old
executive was unanimous
.
Unilever ( UL ) hired Schumacher as CEO in 2023 from Dutch dairy
cooperative FrieslandCampina with the backing of Nelson Peltz, a
billionaire U.S. hedge fund manager who first invested in
Unilever ( UL ) in 2022 and joined the board several months later.
A representative for Peltz declined to comment.
In his 18 months on the job, Schumacher announced plans to sell
some of Unilever's ( UL ) smaller food brands, worked to spin out its
ice cream business and cut thousands of jobs. Shares had been up
about 9% in his tenure.
Rival Nestle, the world's biggest food maker, has
also endured turmoil at the top. In August, it fired CEO Mark
Schneider, tapping insider Laurent Freixe to replace him.
A Nestle spokesperson said its U.S. brands, which include
Lean Cuisine and Coffeemate, are either in the top spot or
second position in 13 categories, including instant coffee and
frozen meals.
"Underperforming CEOs are more exposed than ever to the risk
of being shown the door," said Matteo Tonello, head of
benchmarking and analytics at research group The Conference
Board. Consumer products CEOs must deftly manage not only
changing consumer habits but also supply chain disruptions and
high commodity prices, he said.
Four investors and bankers who spoke with Reuters said the
talent pool to run a consumer goods company is limited, partly
because executives choose other fields, like tech. The people
said joining the ranks of diaper, detergent and canned food
makers was not considered sexy two decades ago when executives
who should now be in line for the CEO job were graduating from
business school.
This has forced several consumer companies, including
Nestle and Unilever ( UL ), to pick an insider for the top spot instead
of finding an outsider to take over.
RISE OF 'INSURGENT' PRODUCTS
Part of the problems facing companies like Unilever ( UL ), Kraft Heinz ( KHC )
and Nestle are smaller, fast-growing independent brands like
Duke's, according to four industry consultants. Procter & Gamble ( PG )
lost its footing in value-priced diapers, while Kraft Heinz's ( KHC )
boxed macaroni and cheese is under threat from Gooder Foods'
Goodles.
A Procter & Gamble ( PG ) spokesperson said it upgraded its Luvs
diapers and added new Pampers products to serve all consumers.
Kraft Heinz ( KHC ) did not respond to a request for comment.
Consumer goods makers delayed developing new products during
the pandemic and immediately after, leaving an opening for newer
brands.
Bain & Co tracks fast-growing, independently-owned consumer
brands, which it calls "insurgents." The consulting firm found
that these brands, a list which has included Chobani yogurt and
Fatty jerky, accounted for 39% of growth in 2024 in their
categories, such as food or personal care. That's up from 17% in
2023, Bain said.
Former Olympian Samyr Laine, now an investor in food
start-ups including electrolyte drink maker Berri Organics, said
bureaucracy and red tape are the largest hurdles for big food
makers.
"It takes a lot of yeses and lots of presentations to just
get going, and their infrastructure isn't built to do smaller
things and incubate and test in smaller communities," said
Laine, who has met with executives at firms such as
Diageo ( DEO ), Unilever ( UL ), P&G and Moet Hennessy to incubate new
brands or pitch products.
To drive sales volume, Unilever ( UL ) ran its fifth consecutive Super
Bowl ad this year, featuring a tongue-in-cheek visit to a New
York deli with the lead actors from the 1989 romantic comedy hit
"When Harry Met Sally."
But Hellmann's has seen its share fall to 46.7% of the U.S.
mayo market last year from 50.6% in 2022, Euromonitor found.
Four consumer industry bankers said Unilever ( UL ) can be slow to
make M&A decisions.
The conglomerate has sold some of its businesses to private
equity firms in the last decade including its spreads business,
tea business and a group of personal care brands called Elida
Beauty.
Unilever ( UL ) has acquired a few fast-growing start-up brands,
including high-end mayo brand Sir Kensington's in 2017 - though
they were not among the bidders for Duke's, according to a
source close to the deal.
(Writing by Jessica DiNapoli with additional reporting by Svea
Herbst-Bayliss, Siddharth Cavale, Abigail Summerville and
Arriana McLymore in New York. Editing by Vanessa O'Connell and
Claudia Parsons)