When the coffin of Queen Elizabeth II lay in state in Westminster Hall as part of the national mourning period, both Kate Middleton, Duchess of Cambridge and wife of Prince William, and Meghan Markle, Duchess of Sussex and wife of Prince Harry, were seen wearing pearl-based items of jewellery belonging to the late monarch. The queen herself had favoured pearls and was rarely seen without them. Hence it is likely that the royals will be paying their final respects to the late monarch at the state funeral on Monday, September 19 at Westminster Abbey wearing pearls.

However, the queen’s liking for pearls is not the only reason for the royals to wear pearls during times of mourning. The tradition of wearing pearls or ‘mourning jewellery’ has been prevalent since Queen Victoria’s era, said a report.

“It’s all about the suppression of colour, and also pearls are not glittery or brash. By choosing them, you are being low-key and respectful,” The Vogue quoted jewellery historian and author Vivienne Becker as saying.

Earlier, pearls, which are formed inside the shell of a mollusc, were associated with wealth and high social rank due to their rarity and high value.

Queen Elizabeth I preferred pearls to show her purity and chastity as she projected her image as the Virgin Queen.

The strong association of pearls with mourning started during the reign of Queen Victoria, who lost her husband, Prince Albert, in 1861. The queen was only 42 and she spent the rest of her life – almost 40 years – in mourning. It was during this period that strict rules around the rites of mourning were developed.

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According to the book Jewels and Jewellery by Clare Phillips, jewellery curator at the Victorian and Albert Museum, in the 1860s, a widow had to wear black for a year to mourn her husband’s death and put on minimal black matte ornaments. She was later allowed to use more elaborate mourning jewellery and then diamonds and pearls. Finally, they were allowed to return to coloured stones. Those who wished to follow Queen Victoria never returned to more light-hearted pieces of jewellery.

Even though such strict rules are no longer observed, the royal family chooses to wear pearls due to their association with purity.

Queen Elizabeth II herself solemnly dressed in black and wore pearls when she was mourning her father George VI’s death in 1952. She also wore pearls to the funerals of Princess Diana, Princess Margaret and her husband Prince Philip, Duke of Edinburgh.

Diana, Princess of Wales, wore pearls at the funeral of Princess Grace of Monaco, who was killed in a car accident in 1982. Diana also wore large pearls at Gianni Versace’s funeral after his murder in July 1997.

Since Queen Elizabeth passed away on September 8, 2022, members of the royal family have all worn pearl jewellery to pay respect to the late monarch.

Catherine Middleton, Duchess of Cambridge, was seen wearing the queen’s own Pearl and Diamond Leaf Brooch at a service at Westminster Hall on September 14.

Meghan Markle, Duchess of Sussex, also paid her respect to the queen by wearing discreet pearl and diamond studs that were gifted to her by the queen.

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Queen Consort Camilla paired her pearl earrings with her favourite four-strand pearl necklace, while Princess Royal Anne wore her full Royal Navy ceremonial uniform with simple stud earrings.

A day earlier, the princess had accompanied her mother’s coffin on its journey from Scotland to London, wearing the Andrew Grima pearl earrings that were a gift from her parents in the late 1960s. She wore the same earrings during Prince Philip’s funeral last year, showing her closeness to her parents, Vogue reported.

(Edited by : Sudarsanan Mani)

First Published:Sept 19, 2022 12:55 PM IST