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LVMH says it is considering more production in US
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CEO Arnault criticized French tax plans
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Investors cite quality, wages as factors against move to
US
By Mimosa Spencer and Tassilo Hummel
PARIS, Jan 29 (Reuters) - LVMH chief executive
Bernard Arnault has sparked a debate over France's attractivity
for business.
In post-earnings remarks late on Tuesday, the billionaire
said his company - known for its high-end products made in
France and Italy - has been "seriously considering" bulking up
its production capacities in the United States.
Arnault cited a "wind of optimism" in the U.S. that
contrasted with a "cold shower" of potentially higher corporate
taxes in France.
But any move to production on the other side of the Atlantic
would likely be limited in scope, said investors.
European luxury companies are looking to tap into American
wealth, boosted by stock-market highs and a strong dollar at a
time when Chinese appetite for designer fashion remains weakened
amid a property crisis.
Louis Vuitton, LVMH's biggest label, reaps high profit
margins for its mostly European-made fashion and leather
goods. It makes the vast majority of its handbags - famous for
the 'LV' monogram - in France, but already has several sites in
the United States.
Arnault, who attended U.S. President Donald Trump's
inauguration for a second term earlier this month with his
family, opened a factory in Texas in 2019 under the president's
previous tenure.
His luxury conglomerate also has two sites in California,
opened in 1990 and 2011, and acquired jewellery workshops with
LVMH's $16 billion purchase of American label Tiffany & Co. in
2021.
"American clients accept 'made in the U.S.'... so we can
consider the United States," LVMH CFO Jean-Jacques Guiony told
reporters on Tuesday.
"It's clear that we are being strongly pushed by the
American authorities to continue to build out our presence,"
Arnault said. "In the current context, this is something that
we're looking at seriously."
The comments from Arnault, France's richest businessman,
drew a swift reaction from the French government. The
government, under pressure to plug budget gaps, has said it may
levy corporate tax hikes on the country's largest companies.
Spokeswoman Sophie Primas said on Wednesday that the tax hikes
would be temporary and the administration remained pro-business.
"I know Bernard Arnault is attached to his country," she
said, describing LVMH as "the pride of France."
TAKING TIME
The group is already focused on adding European workshops at
Dior, its second-largest label after Vuitton.
Dior's plans to significantly increase in-house production
of its luxury clothing and accessories are "taking time," Guiony
said. The group pledged to bring in-house Dior manufacturing to
levels closer to that of its Louis Vuitton brand, around 60%,
after an investigation by Italian prosecutors turned up alleged
sweatshop-like conditions at subcontractors for the label.
For now, the priority of high-end fashion manufacturers will
likely remain France and Italy.
Rising sales in the United States may spur companies to
consider producing there, but wages are high and quality will
need to be top-notch, said Stefan Bauknecht, portfolio manager
at DWS.
"I can't imagine a Birkin or Kelly bag being produced in the
United States," said Bauknecht, referring to Hermes' most iconic
handbags.
The Hermes-made handbags, which can carry prices upwards of
$10,000, are made in workshops in France by leather workers with
years of training.
"I think ultimately if someone's paying more than a thousand
(dollars), you want that to be made in France," said Markus
Hansen, portfolio manager at Vontobel.