NEW YORK, Aug 6 (Reuters) - Bath & Body Works ( BBWI )
is going to college.
Students at hundreds of U.S. universities will soon be able
to buy the company's fragrances, candles and other items at
campus bookstores, in a departure from the beauty retailer's
long-held business model as it tries to lure coveted Gen-Z
shoppers.
Bath & Body has struck deals with bookstore operators like
Barnes & Noble and Follett Corp to set up shops inside some 600
campus stores, where it will sell popular fragrances like
Mahogany Teakwood and Champagne Toast, new CEO Daniel Heaf told
Reuters. Schools include George Washington University, Boston
College and Vanderbilt University.
It is the first time that Bath & Body will sell items
outside its own stores, but it won't be the last, Heaf said.
"This idea of being either a wholesale brand or a
direct-to-consumer brand is over," he said, adding that
third-party distribution will be key to growth in the future.
Boosting sales with Gen-Z is a priority for Heaf, who took
the reins in May after a tough year that saw the company's
shares removed from the benchmark S&P 500 index. The shares have
lost 24% over the last two years, and closed at $28.93 on
Tuesday.
College bookstores could be fertile ground for gauging what
younger buyers want without investing much capital, said
Morningstar analyst Jaime Katz.
It's also "a way to keep the conversation going with teen
girls while they're ... not living with their parents anymore,
not going to their usual places anymore," Katz said.
An April survey by investment bank Piper Sandler found that,
among teens, sales of fragrances were up 22% versus the same
time last year, making it the fastest-growing segment in the
beauty industry among teen shoppers.
Before joining Bath & Body, Heaf held various roles at Nike ( NKE )
, including running its direct-to-consumer business,
which former CEO John Donahoe leaned heavily into after the
pandemic, reducing the apparel brand's reliance on third-party
retailers.
That direct-to-consumer shift backfired, and Nike ( NKE ) has since
sought to repair its retail relationships. But analysts have
attributed the failure more to a lack of fresh product than to
the work of Heaf, whose reputation as an innovator remains
solid.
Katz believes Bath & Body's $29 share price could be a
bargain, noting the company's strong operating margins and
limited exposure to tariffs. One challenge Bath & Body faces,
she said, is communicating to consumers the breadth of its
product line, which ranges from soaps to lip balms to
wallflowers.
On that front, Heaf hinted that the company may seek to
streamline offerings, focusing on the strongest sellers, and
ramp up its digital presence. Bath & Body spends 3% to 4% of its
revenue on marketing, but Heaf said he would rather concentrate
on fewer, but deeper, campaigns to boost brand awareness.
"Think about a video on Instagram that tells a story about
the product," he said. "Building awareness leads to a delay in
purchase, because you're capturing a new consumer. But it works.
I've seen it work."